American Wine Society

Hess Collection Vertical Tasting

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Home of Dean & Debbie Mitchell

(notes graciously supplied by J.T. Mayer)

Before Tasting:

1. Hess Select Chardonnay 2005

2. Carr Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Napa Valley

Vertical Tasting:

1. Hess Collection Mountain Cuvée Mount Veeder 2003

2. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Estate 2000

3. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Estate 1997

4. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Estate 1993

5. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Estate 1991

6. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Estate 1990

7. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate 1988

8. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate 1987

9. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate 1986

10. Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate 1985

After Tasting With Food:

1. Hess Collection Zinfandel Napa Valley 1994

2. Hess Collection Merlot Napa Valley 1993

3. Mas Amiel Cuvée Spéciale 10 Ans d'Âge NV, Maury, France

A late spring Sunday afternoon gave a great setting for us to sample a grand assortment of vintages produced by The Hess Collection at their Mount Veeder vineyards and winery. Dean Mitchell has been a longtime fan of these wines of great quality and reasonable value and had obtained them from the winery or locally when first released. Since those early days their reputation has increased and prices have risen accordingly. We were very fortunate to have such an array presented. After awakening our palates with some white wines and appetizers, we sat to the task at hand with ten glasses holding vintages ranging from 1985 to 2003. We started with the newest and proceeded back in time. This gave the younger wines more aeration in the glass and opportunity for comparison. Although there were noticeable differences in the wines, an overall style did seem to emerge. All had an evident cedar aroma, a somewhat light elegant body and softness rather than big overpowering tannins. This reminded me of a restraint found in some Bordeaux bottlings but with a more front palate forward fruit usually found in Napa wines.

Scoring was done using the 2 vote / 1 vote system with following results:

Year	Votes
2003	3
2000	0
1997	2
1993	0
1991	9
1990	0
1988	2
1987	0
1986	14
1985	4

The group seemed to favor the oldest two vintages while the 1987 may have been past its prime. My favorites included the 1986, 1991, and 1997. The 1997 seemed to be the most powerful which could be expected from that famous vintage. The 2003 Mountain Cuvée may be apart stylistically as big in all respects and made for youthful appeal rather than patience in the cellar. In any case, all the wines were wonderful, in good condition, and would find favor on any table.

Afterwards we enjoyed beef brisket with our samples as well as other Hess Collection bottlings of 1994 Zinfandel and 1993 Merlot. With dessert of Charlotte Russe and berries everyone enjoyed a tasting of Mas Amiel. The Mas Amiel is a French red dessert wine elaborated with Grenache Noir and aged outside in glass demi-johns for one year followed by nine years in oak. Many thanks to Dean and Debbie for their hospitality and diligent acquisition of these beautiful wines!

Notes:

Wine	Notes
2003	Oak, cedar, and vanilla nose with later caramel, very aromatic, soft ripe fruit, lush, accessible.
2000	Restrained nose, astringency blew off to floral note, light subtle body, flavors all on surface.
1997	Prominent cedar nose, sweet fruit balanced with smooth body, more fruit prominent.
1993	Hint of sulfur blew off, nose got really big with cedar and floral notes, fruit tended to lightness, acidity showed in finish.
1991	Fruit, cedar, a little glue in aromas, very concentrated fruit, spicy oak, lush and deep, oaky spice in finish.
1990	cork was dry and crumbled apart but wine was good) Cedar and spice nose, very aromatic, started with medium body, fruit and tannin grew through finish.
1988	Cedar in luscious complex nose, smooth rich fruit had hint of sweetness, soft and accessible, ended with sweet fruit.
1987	Slight sulfur and cedar went to very attractive spices in nose, medium body went to rich,had thickness, eventually showed oxidation.
1986	Musty, dusty, fruit nose smelled older, light bright fruit flavors seemed youthful, hint of molasses, lots of dark fruit, prune, well developed but showing a lot of life ahead.
1985	Spice, slight glue in nose, well developed, mature, full body with depth of fruit, possibly at its height.