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Rhone vs. Rhone Rangers (tasting notes/pictures by JT Mayer) 
Sunday, March 19, 2006 Home of Joe & Deb Lauber | Hints of spring wafted through the afternoon as we met at the Loveland home of long standing members Joe and Deb Lauber. Greeted at the front door by neighbor Walt Huber, I was afraid I had too much cognac the previous night when I beheld green wine in my glass, but that was just Walt having a wee bit o' Irish fun with some French columbard he made, which tasted fine if you closed your eyes. Deb had a full table of snacks, appetizers, and tapas to munch on while we had a sampling of different cabernet sauvignons and a meritage blend that Joe had made. This is what happens in the company of home winemakers; they have to show off a little!
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This was all entertaining but there was some wine waiting to be opened, so we eventually made our way to sit for the tasting. As usual we had the wines bagged in pairs, beginning with four whites and following with six reds. White Rhones are not well known and have some unfamiliar flavors to those who are exposed only to chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. Thus these wines caused some different opinions and divergent views on taste and quality. The reds seemed more familiar and showed a context that people could better relate to and so generally gained more favor of the group. The best quality vote gave a clear favorite by a wine that was unique in the group and the prices surprised many of us. In the midst of sampling the reds, Frank Yantek explained the Three Stooges Wine Rating System and the characteristics typified by each Stooge to the amusement of all. | As afternoon turned to evening, Joe opened a bottle of port he brought back from England, a Dow's Trademark Vintage Reserve. This is sometimes known as a "character" port where it is a house blend that typifies the style of that producer's vintage ports after aging, as opposed to a tawny port that is blended to an immediate drinkable style. And, yes, it was very nice with chocolate brownies. |  |
1. Clay Station Viognier 2004, Lodi, California ** - This had a fruit and flower nose with vanilla and characteristic prominent aromas. The thick body was sweet, very ripe with peach notes and a slight smoky finish that could be mistaken for oak but more likely is the fruit itself. 2. Jean-Luc Colombo Viognier La Violette 2003, Tain l'Hermitage, France ** - This had a chalky nose, light delicate body, some acidity and minerality which was a giveaway that this was the French wine of the first pair. 3. Treana Mer Soleil Vineyard Marsanne 39% Viognier 61% 2002, Central Coast, California **½ - I didn't get much aroma out of this. It was powerful with very ripe fruit, spicy and fruit forward through the finish. A bold wine which lacked nuance. 4. E. Guigal Condrieu 2001, France *** - This had rich, ripe fruit, a slight spiciness, long finish that became thick and heavy, and a touch of peach pit bitterness at the end. This typified my experience with white Rhones made from marsanne and was my second favorite. The third and fourth wines were not popular for the group, so maybe this is an acquired taste, but that's what different wines are for. 5. Joseph Phelps Pastiche 2003, California *** - This had a spicy, fleshy fruit nose and a heavy fruit body with some spice. Not a standout for complexity but serviceable and tied for second favorite. We were told that this was grenache with some syrah and mourvedre which is the classic blend of Cotes du Rhone and Chateauneuf du Pape. This was voted best value by the group. 6. M. Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes-du-Rhône 2003, Tain, France *** - The nose gave a hint of mushroom that can be more often found with older Rhones. It had clean fruit and spice, cherry flavors, with the fruit building in the finish, good balance and some tannins. 7. Zaca Mesa Cuvee Z Grenache 48% Mourvedre 22% Counoise 12% Syrah 10% Cinsault 8% 2000, Santa Barbara County, California **½ - Bright fruit with slight mint, this had an even body but seemed grapey in mid-palate and lacked distinction. Fortunately it gained a dryness in the finish to counteract the concord notes. 8. Chateau Mont-Redon Côtes du Rhône 2003, Vaucluse, France **½ - This gave a lot of aromas and flavors with spice, licorice and perfume in the forefront. Very delicate and restrained, it gained a lot with time to air out in the glass and would probably rate higher if it sat around for a while. This got my best value vote. The group voted second for value and also tied for group second favorite. 9. JC Cellars Syrah Rockpile Vineyard 2001, Santa Barbara County, California *** - This stood out in the glass with a distinct purple color. It proved unique in the entire lineup with intense extracted fruit and some spice. The massive body reminded me of some of the boutique petit sirah wines that have been produced in recent vintages. It simply blew away all the other wines with an overpowering style and easily was voted best quality by a landslide. 10. E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde de Guigal 2000, France *** - This was dry, with even balanced flavors and a note of white pepper in the finish. To be fair this should have been tasted before the JC Cellars because that wine tended to ruin any sense of delicacy. I believe that "Brune et Blonde" refers to a small amount of viognier added to the syrah to give a flowery aroma and touch of bright acidity to the wine which is an accepted practice for Côte-Rôtie. This wine got one mysterious best value vote which caused comment about the ghost of Warren Sublette possibly lurking nearby. Group Voting Results (two hands voting)
Wine
| Quality
| Price
| Value
| Clay Station
| 2
| $13
| 6
| Jean-Luc Colombo
| 2
| $14
| 2
| Treana
| 0
| $25
| 0
| E. Guigal Condrieu
| 2
| $51
| 0
| Joseph Phelps
| 9
| $14
| 19
| M. Chapoutier
| 4
| $10
| 10
| Zaca Mesa
| 2
| $15
| 2
| Chateau Mont-Redon
| 9
| $16
| 15
| JC Cellars
| 23
| $42
| 0
| E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie
| 4
| $60
| 1
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For additional pictures visit the Cincinnati AWS Gallery |