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Regions of Chianti Tasting As we thought the ambitious goal of finding Chianti from each of the 7 or 8 regions resulted in a daunting task. While Dick Fruehwald searched diligently he was only able to secure wines from 4 regions. To make the tasting interesting 2 wines from each region were selected for the tasting. The wines were tasted blind but the same region was paired together. The wines were poured early to ensure they had time to breath. Each pair was tasted separately before proceeding to the next group. This allowed everyone to look for similar characteristics between the two wines from each region even though you were not told which region they originated. Regions Tasted: Colli Senesi - Covering the hills around Siena encompassing Montalcino and Monte-pulciano and giving some good wines. There are numerous bottlers of Chianti Colli Senesi. The problem however with this region is it will always have a difficult time gaining recognition because it is a wine that will always play stepson to the wines using the names, Montalcino and Montepulciano. Only those producers who fall within the region but land outside the Montalcino and Montepulciano zones, usually bottle as Chianti Colli Senesi. Colli Fiorentini - This area was established in 1932 when the Chianti area was first defined. It covers an area encircled by gently sloping hills and includes eighteen municipalities, including Florence. Conditions for Chianti Colli Fiorentini production are more restrictive than the ones for the general Chianti denomination. For example: the yield per hectare can not exceed 56 hectolitres of wine, the wine must also age longer, in fact, the wine cannot be sold before the month of June following each harvest. This is all done to improve the quality and link the wine with the area it is grown. The wine is know by its trademark, the Lion of the tower of 'Palazzo vecchio' in Florence, simbolically joined togetheter with the chalice of Chianti Colli Fiorentini. Rufina – a hilly region just east of Florence. Looking at the potential of the soil and climate, there are some climatic differences between Chianti Rufina and the rest of Chianti, which give Chianti Rufina wines a unique character. On average, the are is cooler and wetter than the other Chianti zones. This results in a wine that is more aromatic and fruity, with higher acidity and firmer, less evolved tannins. Because of the proximity of the mountians, there is greater variance in temperature. This results in a deeper color of the wines and further increases their acidity. This area is probably the best know outside of the Chianti Classico region. – a hilly region just east of Florence. Looking at the potential of the soil and climate, there are some climatic differences between Chianti Rufina and the rest of Chianti, which give Chianti Rufina wines a unique character. On average, the are is cooler and wetter than the other Chianti zones. This results in a wine that is more aromatic and fruity, with higher acidity and firmer, less evolved tannins. Because of the proximity of the mountians, there is greater variance in temperature. This results in a deeper color of the wines and further increases their acidity. This area is probably the best know outside of the Chianti Classico region. Chianti Classico – For the wines we see in the states this region produces the widest range of quality. In 1984 the DOC commission drew up a new set of rules but failed to really substantially improve quality. It raised the allowed percentage of Sangiovese to 90, but continued to require 5% white grapes, "for the sake of tradition." The commission also allowed producers to use up to 10% non-traditional grapes (Cabernet, Merlot, etc.) - essentially accepting what was already common practice. The quality of the wines increased substantially, and things did look up for the better producers, many of whom stopped using white grapes at all. However, they continued to devote much energy to their Super Tuscans, which they were able to sell for much higher prices than their Chianti. In 1995 the commission decreed that Chianti can be made from just Sangiovese, or Sangiovese and Canaiolo, or a mixture of the two and up to 15% non-traditional grapes. Whether the attempt will succeed remains to be seen. Many great wines come from this area but to be sure you need to taste the wine. The problem with this area is it is so large that it really does not show any consistent characteristics. The wines tasted: 2003 Chianti Colli Senesi Geografico – Purple redish color, Grapy/cherry notes, soft tannins with a smooth mouth feel. Lower acidity than expected for a Chianti. This is a very easy drinking fruity wine. Finishes a bit light and dry. 2000 Chianti Colli Senesi Falchini – Ruby colored with a purple center, bit closed in the nose but opened up with spice notes and subdued cherry fruit. Again it had a soft mouth feel with the spice dominating the flavor. Like the first wine this wine is ready for drinking. Note – Produced from the Colombaia vineyard this Chianti from the Siena Hills is a blend of Sangiovese 85%) and a small percentage (15%) of Canaiolo and other red grapes. After brief aging in oak casks, this wine is further refined in the bottle for a few months, it then must pass the careful scrutiny of the Titolati Commission before being sold. 2002 – Chianti Colli Fiorentini Fattoria di Lucignano – Dark red color with a vibrant aroma of tart cherries. Nice level of acidity with notes of oak and black pepper. Mouth filling fruit with a nice medium finish. Of all the wines it seemed to open up quicker. 2001 Chianti Colli Fiorentini Firenze – also a dark ruby color. Bit of a barnyard nose at first. Dark fruit and sun-dried tomato aromas. Very forward in the mouth but complex enough to be intriguing. Medium dry finish. 2000 Chianti Rufina Reserve Villa di Vetrice – Purple redish in color, concentrated nose of raspberry fruit with herbaceous notes. Along with the herbaceous that carried through into the flavor there was a hint of chocolate. Good structure combining the right tannins and acidity. Short finish that was almost floral. 2001 Chianti Rufina Selvapina – Dark red in color. Aroma of parsnip with a hint of iodine. Light tannins with a herbal cherry flavor. Medium dry finish. Note - Selvapiana, which was in the middle-ages property of the Bishops of Florence, belongs since 1827 to the Giuntini family. It is visited all year round by wine lovers (it is only 23 Km. north-east of Florence), who are led through the vineyards surrounding the "Fattoria". Visitors are also welcome to the medieval cellars where the wine slowly matures in the traditional oak casks and can taste the wines in the tasting room adjoining the cellar. The buildings of the "Fattoria" have grown through the centuries around an ancient watch tower, presumably built in the second half of the thirteenth century, surrounded by a garden with old stately trees. 2001 Chianti Classico Gabbiano - Deep red color, dark cherry/berry fruit, and spice aromas. Fruit very forward in the mouth finishes with a hint of mineral and chocolate. This wine screams to be paired with Italian meat and red sauce dishes. Note - Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG is a blend of 93% Sangiovese and 7% Canaiolo-Colorino grapes. Vinified with the skins, this wine is then aged in oak barrels of varying ages and sizes for 18 months. 2001 Chianti Classico Valiano – Dark ruby color, one of the more complex aromas of the evening. Not as fruity as the Gabbiano but had hints of anise, floral, spiciness. Flavors carried the spiciness but added a more earthiness (bark like) taste. Finished long and dry. This wine along with the other classico were the favorites of the evening. Note - The grapes are harvested by hand to select the very best bunches of Sangiovese. After removal from the stalks they are lightly pressed and maceration takes place in stainless steel vats for about 10-15 days.
During this phase the wine completes its alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature which is no higher than 28°C. When all the fermentation processes are complete (alcoholic, malolactic) Chianti Classico Valiano is placed for a few months in oak barrels of various sizes, before bottling. It undergoes further maturing in the bottles before it is ready to be sold and tasted. Chianti Classico Valiano is a brilliant ruby red in colour with an intensely fruity aroma with strong berry notes. It has a balanced and well-structured flavour and pleasantly tannic aftertaste. Chianti Classico Valiano is best drunk fairly young when its fruit perfumes are at their peak.
An afternoon of wonderful wines didn’t end with the tasting. Our hosts, Steve and Debby Dietrich, had a wonderful dinner prepared. A salad of mesclun, strawberries, pine nuts and goat cheese served with a reduced balsamic dressing served as a first course to a wonderful homemade lasagna. The lasagna was layered with sausage, spinach, cheese and tomato sauce. To go with the dinner Steve thought we needed a couple more bottles of wine for the group. The first bottle was a super Tuscan from Burnet Ridge, the winery in which he is part owner. It is a luscious wine made from California Sangiovese and Cabernet. The other was a nice little 3 liter bottle of a 1995 Chianti. As you could guess this extended the tasting by a couple hours as everyone enjoyed the wine and conversation along with a chocolate brownie for desert. 
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